It has been ages since I wrote a blog, but I am (kind of) back for an extensive post about the 2024 Dakar Biennale. So yes! I am currently in Senegal. The last time I traveled to Senegal, was in 2022 and you can find the mini-travel guide I made for that trip. I have been here for six months and I tell you more about what I have been doing and what I am doing in Senegal on my YouTube channel. Some of you may know that I am working on a travel guide titled “Kaay Ñu Dem Senegaal – Come Let’s go to Senegal“. However, currently, all my travel guide activities have been on hold since November 7th due to the 2024 Dakar Biennale. Let me tell you all about it!
Biennale de Dakar
I have been in Dakar during the Biennale for so many times. However, before, I didn’t really know what it exactly was and it wasn’t until 2022 that I actually made efforts to visit exhibitions and events around the Dakar Biennale. You can find more about the 2022 Dakar Biennale on TikTok. Even though it was overwhelming in 2022, I tried being a bit more prepared this year. I signed up for media passes to the opening ceremony of the 2024 Dakar Biennale and even though it was still overwhelming, it was worth it!
Settling into the Biennale (again)
Even though I was more prepared for the Biennale this year, it was still quite overwhelming. Mostly, because during the Dakar Biennale, there are so many events happening at the same time. So, yes, you may miss a few (or a lot) of things that are happening around the Biennale, but give yourself some grace. You cannot be in multiple places at the same time. I know I would if I could, but I can’t, and maybe that is for the best. Just pick a few events and exhibitions you really want to visit and try to stick to that.
2024 Dakar Biennale
I remember from the last time, that Ancien Palais de Justice is a key location during any Biennale in Dakar. During my research I also found out that Musée des Civilisations noires, the National Gallery and Maison Culturelle Douta Seck are also key locations. At these locations, you will find the main program of the biennale, which is also referred to as the IN. The OFF however, are side programs created around the biennale. That’s why there are so many events happening at the same time. During this year’s biennale, more than 400 events surrounding the 2024 Dakar Biennale are being manifested. The theme of this year’s Biennale is The Wake, in French l’éveil, le sillage and in Wolof xàll wi.
The opening ceremony
For this year’s biennale, I applied for a media pass. I kind of did it last minute, but managed to get a special invite pass. The opening ceremony of the 2024 Dakar Biennale took place at the Grand Théâtre Doudou Ndiaye Coumba Rose. A great location for a spectacular event. This year, the USA and Cape Verde are the chosen honorary countries. Which is why you will find a Senegalese, American and Cape Verdean pavilion at the Museum of Black Civilisations. I actually had the chance to sit (a couple of rows) behind Mr President, Bassirou Diomaye Faye.
Overall, the opening ceremony was spectacular. We saw Cape Verdean and American artists, saw the performance of The Wake and found out about the organisation of the 2024 Biennale. In addition, we also got to know first which artists won a prize! There have been big prizes and the jackpot of 20 million cfa went to Agnès Brézéphin. She is a Caribbean artist and teacher and won the prize for her work titled Fil(s) de soi(e). In this work, she addresses her experience with incest and the idea of repairing bruised bodies. You can admire Agnès’ work at Ancien Palais de Justice.
Ancien Palais de Justice
The former courthouse lies on Cap Manel and has a beautiful view onto the ocean. Before Ancien Palais de Justice started to play an important role during the Dakar Biennale, it had been empty for 24 years. Since 2016 the main event of the Dakar Biennale, takes place in the former courthouse. In 2022, the Chanel’s Métiers d’art Collection show took place here as well. If you find yourself ever in Dakar during the Biennale (or not), definitely take a trip to the former courthouse. It’s really nice and you can even get panoramic shots.
Navigating Ancien Palais de Justice
Ancien Palais de Justice is an important (and huge!) place. There are so many exhibitions and rooms to experience the international selection of the Dakar Biennale. I did it and so can you! The best thing is to really take your time. One day, I just came around 1 pm and stayed until 4 pm to take my time while walking around the former courthouse. Also, remember that it is okay to come back to an expo. Especially when it comes to Ancien Palais de Justice and the Museum of Black Civilisations. I definitely visited them three or four times already.
So, the former courthouse has two floors. Best is to start at the ground floor, where you will find a tribute to Anta Gérmaine Gaye, the haptic library and the curator’s exhibition. You will also find the design exhibition either on the ground floor or if you go outside at the back of the former courthouse. Upstairs, you will find the international exhibitions. Try to start with the first chapter: Swimming in the wake. If you go about it like this, you will not miss a thing!
Museum of Black Civilisations
Another important place to visit during the Dakar Biennale is Musée des civilisations noires. Here you will find the pavilions of Senegal, Cape Verde and the USA. You will find artworks from different artists from these respective countries. It’s a great location to start your 2024 Dakar Biennale adventure. It is not so overwhelming and if you’re up for it, you can check out another location or event! Check out what other museum or art institution is close by and try to experience another expo.
chasing galleries down town
There are many galleries down town. I definitely recommend going down town and visit most of the galleries there. One day, I started at Selebe Yoon, went to the National Gallery, but also visited Le Manège and Galerie Cécile Fakhoury. I know you can also find the French Institut, the African Arts Museum (IFAN), OH gallery and the Daniel Sorano Theatre. The Pullman Teranga also has an expo andI’m certain that most of the other hotels have too.
admire all the art
Even though I find the Dakar Biennale overwhelming, it inspires me at the same time. It is so amazing to discover so much new contemporary African art and what it can look like. I feel like African art in general can be very underrepresented and underrated. However, I have been in admiration since the beginning of the 2024 Dakar Biennale. I have seen so many works of art that I relate to and that are a good representation of what is and has been happening in the world. Experiencing all of that gives me hope.
Forgotten Icons
My friend Djibril Dramé exposed on route de la Corniche Ouest near the sporting gear. The title of his work is Forgotten Icons and explores portraits of Nina and Lisa Simone (her daughter), the Ghanaian legendary Ama Ata Aidoo and the Egyptian Umm Kulthum. Definitely find out more about Djibril’s work. Forgotten Icons was curated by Fatima Bocoum.
The Sierra Leonean embassy
I found myself at the Sierra Leonean embassy for Past, Present, Future which was a group exhibition by Sierra Leonean artists. It was curated by Yasmin. I really loved Hickmatu Leigh’s work and loved how the work came so well together. There was a panel talk with the Ambassador of Sierra Leone, the curator, Yasmin and Hickmatu Leigh. This year, there were no Biennale-related events organized by the Dutch embassy. Hopefully, they will take the chance to create an interesting event for Dutch(-Senegalese) artists that live in the Netherlands next time.
Maison Culturelle Douta Seck
Another important location of the official Biennale programming is the Douta Seck cultural hub. In May, during the OFF is ON, Oroko Radio organized some events and parties with dope DJ’s. For the Dakar Biennale there are two expo’s at this location. The first is called Jaar Jaar which translates to experience or journey from Wolof. The exhibition talks about Senegal’s national orchestra’s journey. On the opening of the exhibition, they even played for us and it was wonderful. Do you guys remember Pa Gueye from Maitresse d’un Homme Marié? His name is Lamine N’diaye and he is actually a former member! I didn’t know and it was wonderful to hear him do a speech during the event. Next, there is an immersive exhibition called Beneen Dimension, Another Dimension.
A(nother) creative in Senegal
I was interviewed about the 2024 Dakar Biennale for a Dutch news channel. The journalist asked me what the Biennale means to me. All I could say is that it is really inspiring for me as an artist, photographer, content creator etc. I even said I felt so inspired that I want to apply for the next Dakar Biennale. I have already met so many interesting artists from Senegal alone. On top of that, I have discovered many more international artists during this year’s Biennale. And guess what? I still have plenty of time to discover even more!
The National Gallery
While gallery hopping down town, I visited the National Gallery. It was my second time visiting and I definitely enjoyed it. The exhibition is a tribute to the late Ndoye Douts. His full name is Mouhamadou Ndoye Douts and he was a painter, director and screenwriter. He died in June last year and is crowned by a moving exhibition of over 30 pieces of his work from his studio located in his home in Djender, the Lebou village where he was born.
Tips for the 2024 Dakar Biennale
I definitely suggest following Partcours on Instagram. This is their 13th edition and they work together with the OFF programs of the Biennale. They have been very helpful when it comes to navigating the Dakar Biennale. They created a book with some of the openings of the exhibitions and even made daily schedules so you can experience a great part of the Biennale. This years theme for Partcours is Art dans la cité, art in the city. Definitely check out their website for their selection of the OFF locations.
What else?
As you can see, I have definitely been out and about during the 2024 Dakar Biennale. Definitely watch my story highlight of the opening ceremony. Be on the look out for a general Biennale recap that I will post at the end of the Biennale. Hopefully, you’ll hear from me soon with another blog.
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